THE SKINCARE CODE #3 - Hype sells ingredients
Beyond the Buzz: Why Not All Active Ingredients Are Created Equal
It’s easy to get swept up in the hype. Skincare shelves are filled with labels boasting powerful ingredients — Vitamin C, Retinol, Hyaluronic Acid — all promising transformative results.
But here’s the truth: just because an ingredient appears on a label doesn’t mean it will work on your skin.
The difference between real results and wasted potential lies in the science beneath the surface — in the form, structure, and delivery of each molecule.
🔍 The Science of Ingredient Effectiveness
The power of an active ingredient is determined not just by what it is, but how it’s formulated. Here are the critical factors that determine whether an ingredient actually works:
1. Molecule Size
According to a well-cited study by Bos & Meinardi (2000) in Experimental Dermatology, ingredients must be under 500 Daltons in molecular weight to effectively penetrate the skin barrier. Larger molecules may sit on the surface and do little — or nothing.
2. Lipophilicity (Oil Solubility)
Your skin's outer layer is lipid-rich. For an ingredient to pass through, it must have the right oil-loving properties. Too water-loving? It stays on the surface. Too oily? It may clog instead of absorb.
3. Ionisation & pH Compatibility
Only neutral (non-ionised) molecules can penetrate the skin efficiently. If a formula doesn’t account for your skin’s natural pH, it can render active ingredients ineffective — or even irritating.
4. Molecular Structure & Flexibility
Even with the right size, a molecule's shape and flexibility impact its ability to navigate your skin’s tightly packed lipid layers.
5. Chirality
Yes, molecules have mirror images — and only one is often biologically active. Using the wrong version can do more harm than good. At Dermalist, we select the correct chiral forms to maximise efficacy and safety.
6. Stability & Purity
Many ingredients degrade quickly when exposed to air, light or heat. If your actives aren't stable or pure, they won't work — no matter how fancy they sound.
7. Delivery System
Even a perfect molecule can’t work without a proper delivery mechanism. Encapsulation, liposomal delivery, and pH-controlled release systems ensure actives reach the layers where they’re needed — without irritating the surface.
What This Means for You
At Dermalist, we don’t include ingredients to tick marketing boxes.
We formulate with clinical precision — selecting only the highest-grade actives, engineered at the molecular level, backed by science and designed to deliver measurable results.
Our products are proof that when formulation is done right, less is more effective.
No spin. No filler.
Just skincare that works — because it’s made to.